Sunday, November 28, 2010

How to draft princess seam blouse from basic sari blouse draft

Please see this site. There are many Princess cut blouse models.


Method of sewing zip to a garment.

Attach facing to the neck line. (I have shown only the back side of the garment here as it is difficult for me to show both the sides that is front and back.) Press under the seam allowances of the back opening
Close the zip. Mark the length of the zip on the garment. Stitch the seams together on the fold line till the mark and press the seams open
Pin the zip to the edges to the folded seam allowance such that the center line of the zipper coincides with the edges of the seam allowances and the zipper tab end should be placed ½” below the neck line seam. Trim off the zipper tape just below the neck line. Baste the zipper to the garment. Do the same thing for the other side also
Using the zipper foot machine stitch the zipper to the garment. . Fold the neck facing and finish the neck line using hem stitch

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

How to sew seams - Part 2

French seam

French seam is a strong seam. I can only be used on straight seams. Finishing of the seams is not needed. It is very useful for stitching under garments and sheer fabrics; it is not suitable for heavy fabrics.
Stitching method.
Keep wrong sides of the material together, Stitch on the right side ¼” away from the seam line in the seam allowance.
Trim the raw edge to 1/8” from the line of stitching and turn to the wrong side.
Crease the joint, press. Fold on the line of the joint. Stitch on the seam line.
While stitching care should be taken such that the raw edge of the seam does not show on the right side.

Flat-fell seam.

This seam is used for men’s shirts and pajamas. It has got two parallel rows of stitches.
This is the strongest seam.
Keep wrong side of the fabric together and stitch on the right side on the seam line .Trim one side of the seam by ¼”. Turn under the raw edge of the other seam and place it flat on the trimmed seam and top stitch close to the folded edge

Monday, November 22, 2010

How to sew seams - Part 1

Seams are the lines of stitching which hold two pieces of fabric together. There are many types of seams. The type of seam we use depends upon the fabric.

Plain seam

This type of seam is used for firmly woven fabric that does not ravel easily. Double stitched plain seam gives added strength. If we want to open the seam to give smooth fit double stitching is done one above the other.

How to make plain seam

Keep the two pieces of the material to be joined, right sides together and make a single row of machine stitching ½” from the edge. Beginners can mark the seam line and tack before machine stitching. Make a second row of stitching 1/16” from and parallel to the first row in the seam allowance

Methods of finishing plain seam

1. Pinking
It is used for firmly woven fabric. After stitching the seam is trimmed with pinking shears

2. Overcasting

This is also used on firm fabric. After seam is stitched the edges of the seams are stitched together with over casting stitches by hand or the seams can be opened and overcasting is done separately.

3 Hemming

This is used on the fabric that ravels. After stitching, the seam is opened and the raw edges are turned inside a little and machine stitched.

4 False French

This method id used on sheer fabrics to get neat finish .This adds strength to the seams. After stitching, seam is opened, raw edges are turned up and brought together and hemmed by hand

5 Bound seam 

This method is used on fabric that is heavy and ravels easily. After stitching, seam is opened and the raw edges are bound separately with bias strips.

Self binding 

This method can be used for the seams that can be turned towards one side. Stitch seam .Trim one layer of seam allowance to ¼”. Turn and press the other seam allowance towards the trimmed side. Turn again over the trimmed side and stitch.

Zigzag stitched.

Stitch seams. Finish the seams with zigzag stitches placed to the edge of the seam allowance.

Seams in sheer fabrics.

Place the fabric right sides together. Stitch them together 1/8th” from the seam line with in the seam allowance. Fold and press both the layers over the stitching. Stitch close to the folded edge.>Trim the seam allowance close to the stitching.Turn again and stitch close to the edge such that the stitches should fall on the seam line. This makes almost invisible seam