Thursday, September 13, 2012

Yoke frock

Prepare the draft of A line frock as   described earlier.  Mark point N on the line A-B such that A-N = ¼ chest -1” At the point N draw a line perpendicular to the line A-B as shown by dotted line . ( Figure 1)

Draft of A line frock

Cut along the dotted line dividing the draft into two portions yoke and skirt. ( Figure 2)

Place the draft pieces on another big  sheet of paper and do the following changes.( figure 3)

Skirt front

 Add an extension of N’QRB along the line N-’B keeping N-’Q=-BR = 5” or to taste. If you want more gathers you can keep more. If there is shortage of fabric you can keep less. Keep ½” more along the line O’N’ Q for seam allowance.
Skirt back
Follow the same method and add 5” or more extension along the line N’-B  and ½” seam allowance  along the line P’-N’- S.

Yoke front
 Add ½” seam allowance for the yoke front along the line N-O
Yoke back
Add ½” seam allowance for the yoke front along the line N-P and add ½” extension along the line G-N for attaching plackets (Button stands)

Cut the draft again according the new changes made.

New draft pieces
 Now you have prepared the draft of a yoke frock ( Figure 4)
Puff sleeves suits well for this frock. Or you can have sleeveless also.

Place the draft on the fabric of your choice taking care to keep the side marked “on fold” on the fold of the fabric ( Figure 5)

Make a slash M-N in the middle of the back skirt,at the top as shown in the figure 6

Different parts of the skirt

Finish the slash M-N by  continuous bound placket

Finish the right side of placket of the back yoke by facing and left side of the placket by extension as explained      here.
Finish the neck with   piping  or with    bias flat facing.

To gather back and front and back skirt set the sewing machine to sew long stitches. Sew two parallel rows of long stitches ¼’ away from each other with in the seam allowance. Leave a couple of inches of thread free on both sides as shown in Figure 7

Divide and mark front and back skirt pieces in to 4 equal parts. In the same manner divide and mark front and back yoke also in to 4 equal parts .Keeping right sides together pin 4 skirt portions to 4 yoke portions as shown in the figure 8

Gently pull the two front threads, leaving the threads on the back alone (the wrong side). Gathers are formed.  Spread the gathers evenly and join front and back yoke to front and back skirt.Stitch  sides of front and back skirt together.(Figure 9)
Yoke frock
Finish the armhole with piping. Puff sleeves also suits well for this type of frock. Finish  the bottom edge of the skirt with hemming.