Saturday, November 24, 2012

Salwar with waist piece

Plain salwar has more gathers near the waist which make wearer look fat. Many people do not like this. We can reduce the bulkiness near the waist by dividing the salwar length in to two portions waist piece and leg piece which are joined near the seat line. Waist piece is stitched such that fits well to the body, not too tight or not too loose. Gathers are attached to the waist piece. Thus the bulkiness near the waist piece is eliminated. Waist piece is also called Nefa.

 Waist piece

Draw a rectangle PQRS having side P-S  is on fold.
P-Q= ½ seat +3½ “
P-S =7” for adults and for children ⅟₆ th seat +½”.
Extend S-P to P’ such that P-P’ = 2½”
Extend R Q to Q’ to P’ such that Q Q’ = 2½”
P-P’Q-Q’ is for casing.
Leg piece

B-C full length-waist piece length+1”
From B draw a line B-A perpendicular to B-C and equal to ½ of the width of cloth-2”. For the seat measurement above 42” purchase cloth whose width is 40” or 44”.for the rest 36” wide cloth is enough,.
On the line B-C mark point F such that B-F ⅟₆ th seat + 1”.
From point F draw line F-G perpendicular to C-B such that F-G = A-B..
Produce Line F-G to E such that E-G = 2”.
Join A and G.
Join E and A by a curved line as shown in the figure 1.
From point C draw C-F perpendicular to B-C such that C-F =1/2 bottom round + ½”..
Join E-F.



Fold the cloth into half once lengthwise and once again widthwise. There will be 4 folds of cloth.
Place the draft on the cloth folded as shown in figure 2 A. waist piece is cut from the leftover fabric.
If cloth is not sufficient for waist piece, place the draft on the side of the leg piece as shown figure 2B and cut. Add a triangular patch as shown. Do not forget to add seam allowance for both bits. 

Pattern pieces


Waist piece

Prepare waist piece as explained in Figure 4.Divide waist piece in to 4 equal parts By making notches. R’-T,T-S,S-V and V-R are the equal parts.
S is the midpoint of the waist piece. Point T is the midpoint of R’S and point V is the midpoint of S-R.
Mark point X between R’T such that X-T = 2”. In the same way mark Y in-between V-R such that V-Y = 2”.   
Stitch the casing and sew the short edges of the waist piece together as shown in the figure 4. 

Leg piece

Stitch the bottom sides of the leg piece and crotch line as explained in plain salwar.
Now we have to attach leg piece to the waist piece.


Insert leg piece inside the waist piece.
Keeping right sides together Pin point A’ of the leg piece to midpoint S of the waist piece. Pin point A of the leg piece to point QQ’ of the waist piece. Start stitching from the point A’ keeping waist piece and leg piece together till the point X is reached. Take a big pleat in the leg piece at the point X and then make small plates and stitch leg piece to the waist piece till QQ’ the midpoint in  the front of the waist piece reached. Follow the same method for the other side also.
Pass a draw string through the casing. Salwar is ready to wear.