Monday, February 20, 2012

Double breasted A line frock- Variation 5

Prepare the draft for A line frock.
Make changes in the draft of the front as shown in the figure.
There is no change in the draft of the back.


Saturday, February 18, 2012

Method of stitching A line frock with round yoke.

This frock has got two parts .One is the round yoke with facing and the other is skirt portion. Top edge of skirt portion is sandwiched between the  layers of yoke and yoke facing and stitched. Circular edge of the yoke and neck if finished with piping.
Prepare the draft as explained  here
Using the draft prepared cut yoke, yoke facing and front and back skirt pieces Mark the points X, X',H,H',Y,Y' , G and ,G' on the skirt pieces as-well as on the yoke pieces.

pattern pieces of the dress

Make a slash of 2” In the middle of the curved edge of the skirt back for opening.
Stay stitch around yokes and armsyes.
Join yoke front to yoke back at shoulders. Open the seams and press. Repeat it for yoke facing.

shoulder lines are joined
seems opened and pressed

Yoke facing

Fold the bias binding or piping in to half, width wise and press.
Place folded bias binding on the right side of the yoke along the curved edge,keeping raw edges together and stitch having a seem of 1/2" all around.

Tack piping to the neck line keeping raw edges together.Clip the curve around the yoke.

Fold the raw edges of the yoke inside and press
Piping folded back

Place the yoke facing on the yoke,keeping right sides together and matching shoulder lines and curves. Secure them with pins. Stitch them together along the back opening and neck line, 1/2' away from the raw edges as shown in the figure below. Clip the curves.
Facing placed on the yoke
Turn inside out and press. Now yoke is ready.

Finished yoke

Yoke with facing
part of the armscyes are in  the skirt portion. Finish them with piping Finish slash made in the skirt back with continuous bound placket. 
Stitch front skirt to front yoke facing keeping right side of the facing to wrong side skirt together, matching points.X andX' on the yoke to X and X’ on the skirt.with a seam of 1/2''.
In the same way stitch skirt back to left and right yoke of the back.

Skirt front

skirt back

Smooth the yoke on the facing, position piping of the yoke such that it covers the row of stitches on the skirt.
Tack in place. Stitch in ditch. (Machine stitch should fall where piping meets the yoke.)
Finish the hem by folding ½” inside.Attach press snaps or hook and eye to the plackets.
Finished frock front view
Finished frock back view


Monday, February 13, 2012

Preparing draft of A line frock with round yoke -variation 4

Prepare the draft of A line frock as explained here without extension on the shoulder line Draw new armhole
curve L-E as shown by dotted line. In this garment there is no difference between front armhole shape and back armhole shape. Curve L-E is common for front and back of the draft..

Produce the shoulder line F-L to L’ such that L-L’ = 1” to 1½”. Curve G-F is back neck line. Mark G’ on the line G-B such that G-G’=F-L’. Draw curve G’-L’ keeping the distance between the curve G-F and G’ L’ constant.The shape F-G-G’ L’ F is back yoke.
 Curve F-H is front neck line.Mark H’ on the line G-B such that F-L’ =H-H’
Join points H’-L’ by a curved line, such that the distance between curve H-F and H’-L’ constant.
The shape F-H-H’-L’ is front yoke.
On the draft of the front mark point X at the intersection of the curves L-E and H-L’
Separate the yoke from the skirt cutting along the curve H’-X

On the draft of the back mark point Y at the intersection of the curves L-E and G-L’
Separate the yoke from the skirt cutting along the curve G’-Y.

Add an extra strip of width ½” along the line G-G’ of the right back yoke for seams and add an extra strip of width 1” for the left back yoke for extension along the line G-G’
Add extra ½” along the curves L’- X -H’-X-’ L’ of the front yoke, curve  L'-Y-G' of the left back yoke and curve  L’-Y'-G'  of the right back yoke.
Add ½’ extra for seems along the curves X-X’ and Y-Y’ of front and back skirt.


Sunday, February 12, 2012

Aline frock with flounce Variation 3

Prepare the draft of "A line" frock. On the draft of the front mark three curved lines dividing the draft below the chest line  into three equal parts.I have marked them with dotted lines,Do the same thing for the draft of the back..Stitch the A line frock as usual..Attach flounces on the lines marked.
Please refer step frock tutorial for  method of attaching flounces

Saturday, February 11, 2012

Friday, February 10, 2012

A line frock Variation 1

Using the draft of “A “line frock as basis we can create many different types of dresses
Here is one such dress.
Prepare a draft of” A “line frock as explained here without extension at the shoulder

Mark point X on the fold 2” below line C- E as shown in step 1

Cut along the line X-E and separate the front draft in two portions as shown in step 2

While cutting the fabric ½” is added along the line X-E on both portions as shown in step 3

You can keep the draft of the back as it is or you can cut it into two pieces as we did for the front.
Cutting and stitching
Cut the two portions of the front in different colours.
Join them together taking care that there are no wrinkles near the “V” shape.
Rest of the rest of procedure is same as that of “A” line frock.

Sunday, February 5, 2012

Oh! not again!

Hi readers! has copied my posts of Vani's blog 1 and 2

and posted in her blog under the heading student's blog.I do not know what should be done.