Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Frock from A line frock.

Once you learn drafting” A “line frock it is very easy to prepare drafts for many other types of frocks. The garment that I am teaching can be used as baby’s dress, kid’s frock or kurthi which is or on jeans. Age is no bar!!

Prepare the draft of A line frock. Make the necessary changes as explained in Figure 1

Figure 1

Divide the neck curve H-F in to 4 equal parts by marking points 1, 2 and 3
Divide the bottom curve line into two equal parts by marking point 4
Join points 1&4, 2 and E
From the point E draw a line perpendicular to the line 2-E
Produce shoulder line F-L. It meets the perpendicular line from E at a point M.F-M is the new shoulder line. E-M is the new sleeve bottom
Mark point N which is the midpoint of the line E-M. Join the points 3 &; N.
Figure 2

Starting  from the point H cut the draft along the neck line  H-F, then along shoulder line F-M, sleeve  bottom, side E-I and finally skirt bottom I-B.
Cut along the line 2-E and separate sleeve from the skirt portion. There will be 2 layers in the sleeve portion .Keep one and discard the other. (Figure 2)

Figure 3

 Arrange and spread the pieces on a separate sheet of paper as shown in the figure 4. Keep the pieces 3” apart and keep 6” apart near the bottom.½” seam allowance along the line 2-E, for both front and back skirt draft.[i] Cut all-around the pieces as shown by green dotted line. This gives the draft of the skirt portion. If you want more gathers you can keep the pieces still away from each other.

Figure 4


Follow the same procedure as that of front

Cut along the dotted line from point 3 till Point N. Do not separate them at the point N as in Step1 in Figure5

. Arrange them on a different sheet of paper as shown in step 2 in Figure 5.Fix the pieces with pins so that they will not move when you cut the new draft. Add ½” seam allowance along the line 2-E on either side of the sleeve draft. Cut along the green dotted line as shown instep 3 of Figure 5
Thus pattern pieces for new style of dress is got. (Figure 6)

Placing the draft pieces on the fabric of your choice cut the pattern pieces


Finish the sleeve the sleeve edge with simple hem or piping or by attaching a lace.
 Keeping right sides together join sleeves to the to skirt as shown in the figure 7

Make a slash of 3” for opening at the front or back of the skirt in the middle of the neck curve. Finish it with continuous bound placket .Finish the neck by bias flat facing to pass draw string. This is suitable for baby's dress
Or you can gather neck curve by running two rows of long machine stitch and finish with piping..

Keeping right sides together join the sides.
Stitch the hem of the skirt.