Sunday, April 27, 2014

Method of sewing simple basic night dress

 Bodice draft of simple kameez can be used to prepare the draft of night dress.Night dress is easy fitting garment.Hence extra ease is added to bust and hip measurements. Scye depth is increased by ½ ".If  the dress is stitched with  sleeves, width of the sleeve is also increased according to taste.Length of the dress is also depends upon the taste.
 I feel cotton material is  with dainty prints are suitable  for night dress.

Measurements needed

3.full length 

Method of preparing the draft


Draw the draft on a folded sheet of paper.
Mark point A on the fold.
From point A draw a perpendicular line to the fold. On this line mark C such that A-C =½ of Shoulder width + ¼”.
A-J = Neck width =1/12th chest + ¼” or to taste.
A-K =Back neck depth = 2” or to taste.
A-L =Front neck depth =A-K or to taste.
A-D =1/8 chest +3".
A-E =Waist length + ¼”
A-B = Full length + 1”
From points D, E and B draw perpendiculars to the fold A-B.
On the perpendicular line at D mark point F such that D-F =¼ chest+ 2”
On the line D-F mark G such that A-B =D-G. Join points C and G.
 On the line B-G mark point N such that G-N= 1”
On the same line mark point H such that C-H =¾".Join J-H.
On the perpendicular at B mark point J such that B-J =¼ chest + 10” or to taste. Join F-J.
Perpendicular line drawn from the point E meets the line F-J at point Y. E-I  is the waist line.
 On the line F-J mark point M such that M-J =¾” Join points B and M by a curved line as shown in the figure.
Mark point O such that N-O =¾”.

Method of marking point O

Through the point N draw a line P-Q parallel to D-F Bisect the angle ∟PNC. Z-N is the bisecting line. On this line mark point O.
Shape back neck J- K and Back scye H-O-F.
Shape front neck J-L and front scye H-N- F.
Cut the draft along the lines K-J-H-O-F-I-M-B.

Paper pattern oieces

Separate the two layers by cutting along the fold. Keep the bottom (which has no markings) layer aside. This is draft of the back.

Take the top layer and cut along the front neck line J-L and front scye H-N-F. This is the front of the draft. 


Place the paper draft on the fabric as shown in the layout and cut the pattern pieces

Pattern pieces

Cut an opening X-Y measuring 4”or to taste on the front pattern piece as shown in the above  figure.


Finish the neck opening as explained here.
Join front and back by sewing along the shoulder lines.
Stitch sides .
Finish armholes and neck with piping as explained here using bias strips of same material or contrast material.
Finish the hem .
Stitch a belt  using the remaining cloth If you want to tie at the waist line.
Stitch belt carrier bars at two sides at I and I" and at E  on the back and pass the belt.
Simple night dress is ready!