Saturday, March 22, 2014

Method of calculating other body measurements from chest measurements

Using chest measurements we can calculate other upper body measurements.This is for standard body measurements.But to get good measurement it is good to take measurement of each part.
Neck= ⅓ chest + 2½"
Waist =chest -5 to 7 "
Seat = Chest + 2 to 4"
Across chest  = ⅛ th chest + 2¼"
Half back =⅙ th chest + 1"
Half shoulder =⅙ th chest 1½ to 2"
Upper arm or biceps =  ¼ chest + 2 to 2½"
Scye depth =⅛ th chest +  2 to 2½"


Friday, March 7, 2014

V neck with flounce collar

Step 1 prepare front and back of bodice having V neck.

Figure 1
Step 2. Fold back the seam allowances of shoulder lines of front and back of the bodice and stick them together along the shoulder lines with cello tape as shown in the figure 2.

Figure 2

Step 3. Place a sheet of paper of paper under the neck portion as shown in the figure 3 and trace the neck line. ( shown by dotted line). Mark the shoulder line with a point or notch.

Figure 3

Draw the collar as shown in figure 4 adding seam allowance along   the three edges expect the neck line.
Figure 4
Cut and remove the collar piece( figure 5).

Figure 5
Divide the collar in to portions by lines as shown in the figure 6.

Figure 6
Cut along the lines till neck line and not through the neck line Figure 7.

Figure 7

Place this on another sheet of paper and spread the collar portions as shown in figure 8 and draw the outline. This is the draft of flounced V neck collar.
Figure 8

Prepare facing of the neck also. Mark shoulder point.


Cut collar piece and facing in duplicate.


Keeping right sides together stitch front and back of the bodice along the shoulder lines.
Sew the outer edge of the collar with Zig-Zag or rolled edge.
Keeping two layers of collar one above the other, right sides together stitch them together along center front line  and center back line .Open seams and press.
Keeping two layers of facing one above the other stitch along  center front line  and center back line. Open seams and press.

 Sandwich collar in between bodice and facing, matching center front, center back and shoulder notches and stitch all the three layers together 1/4" away from the neck edge and then run a line of machine stitch. Turn the facing inside and press and top stitch on the facing. Fold the loose end of the facing and hand sew to the garment with small stitches.V neck with flounce collar is ready.