Monday, May 12, 2014

Method of sewing night dress with round yoke -Style 2

Prepare the draft basic simple night dress and make the following changes.
( Figure 1)

Produce shoulder line J-H to R such that H-R = 1 ½ “. Widen the neck line as shown in the figure such that head passes through the neck. In this design there will be no neckline placket. P-Q is the new neck line.In this design front and back neck line is the same.  From the point R draw new yoke line R-S so that the width of the yoke is same all over.  Mark new armhole line H-F in between the back armhole line H-O-F and front arm hole line H-N-G. New armhole line cuts the yoke line R-S at the point T. In this design there will be no difference between front armhole line and back armhole line.

Cut and remove unwanted shaded portion .( Figure 2)

New draft will be like this.( Figure 3)

Separate yoke from the skirt by cutting along yoke line R- T-S.( Figure 4).Divide the skirt portion by drawing parallel lines U-V, W-X, Y-Z as shown .

 Cut the draft along these lines. (Figure 5) .

 Place the draft on another sheet of brown paper and spread the portions as shown in the figure 6 and Fix them with mask tapes. Join points T and D by a smooth curve.

 Cut along the lines T-F-I-M-B-E-D-This is the draft of the skirt.( Figure 7 )

Cut the pattern pieces using these drafts as shown in the layout.Do not forget to add ½” seem for skirt top and yoke bottom as shown by purple lines.

Pattern pieces ( Figure 9 )

Follow the method as explained here. 

Friday, May 2, 2014

Method of sewing night dress with round yoke-Style 1

Draft of night dress with round yoke can be prepared by making a few additions to the draft of basic simple night dress.

Take a folded sheet of paper and draw a parallel line X-Y, 6” away from the fold. Mark point A on the line X-Y. Prepare the draft of simple night dress as explained Here.
Produce the line F-G-D let it meet the fold of the paper at D’. 
Draw a line L”-D” parallel to and 2” away from the line L-D.
G is the midpoint of the armhole line of the back.
Join points G and D by a curved line as shown. This curve intersects the armhole curve of the front at the point M.
Cut the draft along the line D'-D”-L”-L-K-J-H-G-O-F-I-M-B-B’
Separate yoke from skirt by cutting along the curve G-M-D-D”D’.

Skirt portion has two layers. Separate them by cutting along the fold D-’B’
Keep the bottom layer aside .This is skirt back.

From the top layer F-N-M. The remaining portion is skirt front.

Yoke portion also has two layers. Fold and crease them together along the line L-D.
From the bottom layer cut along the crease and remove portion L-L”-D”-D.This is the yoke back.
From the top layer cut along G-M-H. This is the yoke front.The extension L=L”-D-”D is for neck line placket.


Place  the paper pattern pieces on the fabric as shown in the layout cut the different pattern pieces.Add half an inch  seem allowance as shown by dotted lines. 


Stitch the neck line plackets as explained  here.  Here we have added extra material so we need not attach separate strips for plackets.   Place facing of the right back yoke on the extension of  left back yoke and fix them with few stitches.

 Method of attaching piping to yoke

Prepare bias tape of width 1½” from a material of contrast colour. .Fold the bias tape in to half lengthwise. Tack folded bias tape to the right side of the back yoke, keeping raw edges of bias tape and bottom curve of the yoke together.
 Place facing of the placket of the front yoke above the extension and secure them with pins.Tack the bias tape to the front yoke as explained earlier.

In the same way you can attach frills to the yoke.
Run two rows of long stitches Gather the middle portion of the  skirt front and skirt back by pulling the one end of 2 threads  together, so that its width is equal to the width of the yoke.

Keeping right sides together stitch front skirt to front yoke to front skirt and back yoke to back skirt sandwiching piping in between. 

Join front portion to back by sewing along the shoulder lines.
Finish the neckline and armhole with piping as explained here.
Stitch sides and finish the hem . Stitch buttons. Night dress with round yoke is ready!